Michelangelo, Mattresses and Medici Tortoises

Hello from Margo

The first week of September was a milestone for me… I retired! (Well, mostly.) And that means I’ll have more time to travel, research, and write. So, my first official act as a retired person was to fly off to Florence where I spent most of September and half of October.

I have a long-standing love affair with Florence, and I’ve been going there regularly for around 25 years. There’s always plenty there to keep this curious rambler occupied, and researching one story seems to lead to three more. Choosing which one to write about is quite a challenge. But on this trip, everything seemed to lead me to Michelangelo, the Medici family, and tortoises.

We start up on a hill above the city…

Michelangelo Uses Mattresses Against the Medici

One evening as my husband and I were walking across the Ponte alle Grazie, we looked up into the hills toward the lovely San Miniato al Monte church. I started telling him the story about Michelangelo hanging mattresses around the bell tower to protect it from the Medici supporters’ cannon fire, and he asked, “Have you ever written about that?”

So, I’m sharing it now. Hope you enjoy the story of Michelangelo, the artist, becoming Michelangelo, the governor-general of fortifications, in charge of keeping out the Medici.

Discover the story of Michelangelo and the mattresses↗

From a bell tower standing proud on a hill, we move to a small secret hiding place…

Michelangelo Hides from the Medici

In spite of Michelangelo’s mattresses, the Medici regained power. And those who had stood against them were in trouble – including Michelangelo. So, in fear for his life, he went into hiding.

The room that may have been Michelangelo’s hiding place was discovered in 1975. It lies beneath the New Sacristy at San Lorenzo, under the Medici tombs, and its walls are covered in charcoal sketches attributed to the great artist. Access is very limited, so I had to buy a ticket several months in advance. It was the second time I had tried to go, and I’m glad I persisted. It was an intimate and moving experience being up close and personal with Michelangelo’s drawings.

Step into Michelangelo’s secret room↗

About seven years after Michelangelo came out of hiding, Cosimo I became the new Medici ruler. And he had a very particular motto…

Medici Tortoises Go Slow… and Fast

Many years ago, I visited Palazzo Vecchio and learned about all the tortoises with sails that are sprinkled throughout the palace. These tortoises all have to do with Cosimo I de’ Medici’s motto – Festina lente (Make Haste Slowly).

Then, on my recent trip, I found out that there were even more tortoises in Florence with a connection to Cosimo I. In addition to those sporting sails, some are holding up obelisks, and one is giving a court dwarf a ride. Check out these three often-overlooked tortoise sites and learn their stories.

Follow the tortoises through Florence↗

If you don’t manage to get into Michelangelo’s secret room, you might still be able to get close to one of his lesser-known carvings…

FROM THE ARCHIVES

Michelangelo’s Mystery Carving

Medici sailing tortoises aren’t the only curiosities to be found at Palazzo Vecchio. You can also find an interesting bit of graffiti on the front wall – that was possibly carved by Michelangelo.

There are various theories about why and how he might have carved it. Did he do it on a dare? Or with his hand behind his back? And there are more theories about who’s face it might be. Have a look at the evidence, then form your own opinion.

Find out more about Michelangelo’s graffiti↗

That’s it for this month! Thanks for joining me on this curious ramble through Florence, and I hope you’ve discovered something that sparked your curiosity.

Do you have a favorite Florence curiosity? Leave a comment below – or, if you’re reading this by email, simply hit reply. I’d love to hear from you.

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See you next month for more curious histories!

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Margo Lestz

Margo has authored seven books and writes mostly about England, France and Italy. She has a BA in Liberal Studies with International Emphasis and enjoys travel, languages, history, writing, and experiencing other cultures.